Dispatches

2005-05-24
Final report from Sweden


2005-05-01
Moscow - stress and tiredness


2005-04-27
No plane arrived today!


2005-04-25
The return trip


2005-04-23
We made it


2005-04-19
Freedom


2005-04-17
Serious thoughts regarding...


2005-04-14
The son of two murdered...


2005-04-12
Conversations in a Siberian...


2005-04-10
We´ve made it to Chersky!


2005-04-07
How to stay married...


2005-04-05
Enjoying life in the tent


2005-04-03
Goodbye Kolymskaya


2005-04-01
The last stretch coming up


2005-03-30
A visit to nomadic Chukchi...


2005-03-28
The art of getting close...


2005-03-27
The Chukchi


2005-03-24
The life of a young trapper...


2005-03-20
The village of Kolymskaya


2005-03-18
Looking back on...


2005-03-16
What a spectacular welcome


2005-03-14
Elena - the first female...


2005-03-10
There´s no easy days...


2005-03-08
Tired after eight months...


2005-03-06
The scenery along Kolyma


2005-03-03
Living in a tent...


2005-03-01
Staying another day for 5 kg:s


2005-02-27
A frostbite and a hard slog


2005-02-24
On the move again


2005-02-22
Still in Chirkovo


2005-02-20
Great humanity shown at Chirko


2005-02-18
The life of a Taiga hunter


2005-02-15
Staying put


2005-02-14
Complications


2005-02-11
Minor problems


2005-02-08
Rough start


2005-02-06
What a difference!


2005-02-05
Worries regarding failure


2005-02-01
Lost in translation


2005-01-31
Final preparations


2005-01-27
A small note on worshipping...


2005-01-25
Making a documentary


2005-01-23
Helpful Yakuts


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 2


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 1


2005-01-17
The Second World War


2005-01-16
The Even babuschka


2005-01-12
Total lack of motivation


2005-01-10
The reality of buying food


2005-01-07
Conversations


2005-01-05
Traveling on a Winter road


2005-01-03
Regarding the equipment


2005-01-02
The true Siberians


2004-12-29
What does you parents think?


2004-12-27
Nasha and Dima, part 2


2004-12-26
A visit to Nasha and Dima


2004-12-23
The yakut Valodja


2004-12-21
Local cuisine & thoughts a pro


2004-12-19
Alexei in Ambar


2004-12-16
We´ve made it to Srednekolymsk


2004-12-13
-57°F!


2004-12-13
We´re closing in


2004-12-11
Tired - but positive!


2004-12-08
The dark side of Kolyma


2004-12-07
Don´t worry, be happy!


2004-12-06
Problems in -43,6°F


2004-12-02
Fatigue


2004-12-02
Sleeping in a tent at -43°C


2004-11-29
The Russian word normal


2004-11-25
A terrible day


2004-11-25
I´ve never been this cold befo


2004-11-23
Almost unbearably cold


2004-11-23
First frost bite!


2004-11-16
It´s time to face the cold!


2004-11-14
True Siberians!


2004-11-11
Dogs along the Kolyma


2004-11-09
A Siberian settlement of today


2004-11-07
The yugahirs as told by Ljuba


2004-11-04
Meeting with a yugahir shaman?


2004-11-02
The youth in Zyryanka


2004-10-31
Violetta and her son Krilli


2004-10-28
What do people in Zyryanka do?


2004-10-26
Rat hunting


2004-10-24
Accused of terrorism


2004-10-21
Visit to a yakut family


2004-10-19
Reflections


2004-10-17
En iblick från Olga och Vadim


2004-10-14
The technical equipment


2004-10-12
We made it to Zyryanka


2004-10-10
Will we make it?


2004-10-07
Self contemplation


2004-10-05
Cold paddling


2004-10-03
Vodka


2004-09-30
Sighting of a Siberian wolf


2004-09-28
Worries!


2004-09-26
A hunting story from our camp


2004-09-23
Winter is on it´s way


2004-09-22
Johan´s two month summary


2004-09-20
Tale about Andre & Valentin


2004-09-16
Primitive living


2004-09-14
Close and dangerous encounter


2004-09-13
The worst of prisonercamps


2004-09-09
Ruslan


2004-09-08
Great scenery


2004-09-05
A hunters tale


2004-09-02
The settlement of Seimchan


2004-08-28
Gnats and molded bread.


2004-08-28
Gnats


2004-08-28
Problem 2


2004-08-28
Problem


2004-08-26
Great fishing


2004-08-24
Johans Impressions


2004-08-24
500 km!


2004-08-22
Autumn


2004-08-19
Freezing day


2004-08-18
Sasha


2004-08-18
Arrival at civilization


2004-08-18
Time thriller


2004-08-18
Getting closer to civilization


2004-08-14
The worst moment of life?


2004-08-14
A day of Siberian civilization


2004-08-12
Beach camp


2004-08-11
Amazing encounter!


2004-08-11
A extremely sunny day


2004-08-10
Rest day at the Grayling River


2004-08-10
Highlight of life


2004-08-10
Beautiful weather


2004-08-10
The cyclon has arived!


2004-08-06
Finally Kolyma!


2004-08-05
Back and going strong!


2004-08-02
Stuck in the Kulu River


2004-08-01
Sunny, 6.7 m/s southerly wind


2004-07-31
Kulu River 14 degrees, raining


2004-07-30
Between heaven and hell


2004-07-29
Last day in Magadan


2004-07-28
Another sunny day


2004-07-27
A sunny and very hot day


2004-07-26
Sunny, but emotionally chaotic


2004-07-26
Everything at once


2004-07-26
A big shock have hit the Exped


2004-07-23
Tired but very satisfied


2004-07-22
The Arctic Institute, Magadan


2004-07-21
Magadan, the Russian Far East


2004-07-19
Nice people & too much stress


2004-07-17
Mosquitos, noise and pollution


2004-07-17
Cloudy, the odd rainfall, warm


2004-07-17
Adventure Club of Russia


2004-07-06
A week before leaving!


2004-04-13
Second report from Särna


2004-04-12
Johans second report!


2003-11-30
1:st report from Särna


2003-11-28
Johans first report from home



 
2004-09-26 - A hunting story from our camp

Sunday the 26th of September, we´re still at N 64°44;06.5 and E 153°01;41.9, the first snow arrived last night, tarns are covered by thin ice and the temperature is below zero. -3 to -6°C.

I just have to tell you about Friday, two days ago, a dream for hungry amateur trappers coming true!

Already during the night, we realized that the cold and the frost stood by the door. Maybe even the snow was on its way? The air was crisp and clear, the trees were making cracking sounds and the fire was restless. One could hear the majestic monotonous voice of the mountain owl from far away. My muscles were aching and tired from the hard paddling the day before and none of us said a word, when Johan placed the breakfast Trout soup on the stove. A sign of tiredness and growing irritation.
Best would have been if we´d spent the day inside the cot feeding the stove with firewood all the time, but we had set the nets in a small inlet the night before. Since we get exited every time it is time to check the nets, we wanted to do just that.

Once outside the cot, we just stood in silence, impressed by the beauty in front of us. A row of snow-covered mountains surrounded by the enormous rust colored forest. It was windy and Kolyma was tense. Still, at that stage we both felt:
´´This feels like we might get some proper meat today!´´

We had caught 5 sigs and 2 small trout´s in the nets. On the way out of the inlet, a caught a small pike on a wobbler. A small grilled aperitif before dinner to kill the worst hunger. We had already decided to dry all sigs, and for that reason the ceiling of the cot is full of drying sigs at the present.

We´re always on the lookout for better fishing waters and we combine those excursions with a short stint in the thick Siberian forest. In the hope of discovering fresh prints left by moose or hare. So far, fishing´s been real good, a success, but hunting not the best, to put it mildly. For this reason, this morning, we tied the boat to a tree, covered the fish since we´re constantly having the company of a group of seagulls and entered the forest. It was incredibly beautiful this morning! The ground was covered by a yellow carpet of pine, old dry trees and thick areas of bush. And it was totally free from wounds made by the destructive hand of man. Total disorder ruled!
´´Stop!´´, shouted Johan after we´d walked for awhile and asked me excitedly, ´´should I shoot?´´
I looked around, figuring he might have spotted one of the evasive moose, not only the constantly fresh tracks, but I saw nothing.
´´No, over there!´´, he whispered and pointed only 10 meters ahead of me. One of Kolymas giant hares sat under a log. It probably thought it was almost invisible as usual, but forgot that his white winter fur was far too early.
´´Fire, it is food!´´, I whispered excitedly!
Johan fired, but amazingly missed!
´´But´´, I said in my normal pedagogic way, ´´you missed again!´´
I grabbed the gun from a shocked Johan, raised it, aimed and killed the hare, who had run off a few meters, still in the hope that he was invisible.
I cannot describe the feeling experienced, in an accurate way, when like we, are totally dependent survival wise, of what we can get out of natures food stores. All I can say is that the feeling is genuinely primitive and has a sense of unhindered freedom. And it gives a short euphoric experience food wise, which one never experiences in the protected life at home in Sweden.

That isn´t the only profound feeling I experienced. It is such a major difference to hunt when it is really serious, when your health depends on what you can get, compared to the spare time hunting back home, when you know that your fridge is still full of food whether you succeed or not. Even the moral of killing is different. I experience the same deep feeling of sadness when I´ve killed an animal, the harmony of animals in nature is so beautiful! And the question from the soul is there:
´´Was this the right thing to do?´´
Back home the answer isn´t always a convincing yes. But, here, it feels genuinely right immediately. It is then one truly knows that it is written, far in there, in your genes, that man is a hunter. It feels natural. But, one also experiences a profound feeling that one wants to honor ones prey, by thanking something indescribable, maybe the great spirits of nature? And one realizes the importance by taking care of everything on the animal, it´s fur and meat and take care of it in a manner that one doesn´t waste or spoil anything.

After we spent the rest of the day taking care of the fish and hare, we set off on an evening hunt. With Johan acting as a hunting dog, with one aim only, to force possible prey out of thick bush. Which he did very well. I shoot a giant of a hare and Johan an additional one later on. We´ve hanged both to mature for a few days in a tree not far from camp. We´ve got food for many days to come!

Just now, whilst writing this, I hear Johan firing three shots in the
distance. I wonder if he got something?

He just returned whilst I am translating this piece, 25 minutes later, utterly disappointed. He missed the biggest hare he´s seen in his life (of course...) and says as only a disappointed 20 year old can say:
´´I will never fire a shoot in my life again!´´

First snow has arrived



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