Dispatches

2005-05-24
Final report from Sweden


2005-05-01
Moscow - stress and tiredness


2005-04-27
No plane arrived today!


2005-04-25
The return trip


2005-04-23
We made it


2005-04-19
Freedom


2005-04-17
Serious thoughts regarding...


2005-04-14
The son of two murdered...


2005-04-12
Conversations in a Siberian...


2005-04-10
We´ve made it to Chersky!


2005-04-07
How to stay married...


2005-04-05
Enjoying life in the tent


2005-04-03
Goodbye Kolymskaya


2005-04-01
The last stretch coming up


2005-03-30
A visit to nomadic Chukchi...


2005-03-28
The art of getting close...


2005-03-27
The Chukchi


2005-03-24
The life of a young trapper...


2005-03-20
The village of Kolymskaya


2005-03-18
Looking back on...


2005-03-16
What a spectacular welcome


2005-03-14
Elena - the first female...


2005-03-10
There´s no easy days...


2005-03-08
Tired after eight months...


2005-03-06
The scenery along Kolyma


2005-03-03
Living in a tent...


2005-03-01
Staying another day for 5 kg:s


2005-02-27
A frostbite and a hard slog


2005-02-24
On the move again


2005-02-22
Still in Chirkovo


2005-02-20
Great humanity shown at Chirko


2005-02-18
The life of a Taiga hunter


2005-02-15
Staying put


2005-02-14
Complications


2005-02-11
Minor problems


2005-02-08
Rough start


2005-02-06
What a difference!


2005-02-05
Worries regarding failure


2005-02-01
Lost in translation


2005-01-31
Final preparations


2005-01-27
A small note on worshipping...


2005-01-25
Making a documentary


2005-01-23
Helpful Yakuts


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 2


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 1


2005-01-17
The Second World War


2005-01-16
The Even babuschka


2005-01-12
Total lack of motivation


2005-01-10
The reality of buying food


2005-01-07
Conversations


2005-01-05
Traveling on a Winter road


2005-01-03
Regarding the equipment


2005-01-02
The true Siberians


2004-12-29
What does you parents think?


2004-12-27
Nasha and Dima, part 2


2004-12-26
A visit to Nasha and Dima


2004-12-23
The yakut Valodja


2004-12-21
Local cuisine & thoughts a pro


2004-12-19
Alexei in Ambar


2004-12-16
We´ve made it to Srednekolymsk


2004-12-13
-57°F!


2004-12-13
We´re closing in


2004-12-11
Tired - but positive!


2004-12-08
The dark side of Kolyma


2004-12-07
Don´t worry, be happy!


2004-12-06
Problems in -43,6°F


2004-12-02
Fatigue


2004-12-02
Sleeping in a tent at -43°C


2004-11-29
The Russian word normal


2004-11-25
A terrible day


2004-11-25
I´ve never been this cold befo


2004-11-23
Almost unbearably cold


2004-11-23
First frost bite!


2004-11-16
It´s time to face the cold!


2004-11-14
True Siberians!


2004-11-11
Dogs along the Kolyma


2004-11-09
A Siberian settlement of today


2004-11-07
The yugahirs as told by Ljuba


2004-11-04
Meeting with a yugahir shaman?


2004-11-02
The youth in Zyryanka


2004-10-31
Violetta and her son Krilli


2004-10-28
What do people in Zyryanka do?


2004-10-26
Rat hunting


2004-10-24
Accused of terrorism


2004-10-21
Visit to a yakut family


2004-10-19
Reflections


2004-10-17
En iblick från Olga och Vadim


2004-10-14
The technical equipment


2004-10-12
We made it to Zyryanka


2004-10-10
Will we make it?


2004-10-07
Self contemplation


2004-10-05
Cold paddling


2004-10-03
Vodka


2004-09-30
Sighting of a Siberian wolf


2004-09-28
Worries!


2004-09-26
A hunting story from our camp


2004-09-23
Winter is on it´s way


2004-09-22
Johan´s two month summary


2004-09-20
Tale about Andre & Valentin


2004-09-16
Primitive living


2004-09-14
Close and dangerous encounter


2004-09-13
The worst of prisonercamps


2004-09-09
Ruslan


2004-09-08
Great scenery


2004-09-05
A hunters tale


2004-09-02
The settlement of Seimchan


2004-08-28
Gnats and molded bread.


2004-08-28
Gnats


2004-08-28
Problem 2


2004-08-28
Problem


2004-08-26
Great fishing


2004-08-24
Johans Impressions


2004-08-24
500 km!


2004-08-22
Autumn


2004-08-19
Freezing day


2004-08-18
Sasha


2004-08-18
Arrival at civilization


2004-08-18
Time thriller


2004-08-18
Getting closer to civilization


2004-08-14
The worst moment of life?


2004-08-14
A day of Siberian civilization


2004-08-12
Beach camp


2004-08-11
Amazing encounter!


2004-08-11
A extremely sunny day


2004-08-10
Rest day at the Grayling River


2004-08-10
Highlight of life


2004-08-10
Beautiful weather


2004-08-10
The cyclon has arived!


2004-08-06
Finally Kolyma!


2004-08-05
Back and going strong!


2004-08-02
Stuck in the Kulu River


2004-08-01
Sunny, 6.7 m/s southerly wind


2004-07-31
Kulu River 14 degrees, raining


2004-07-30
Between heaven and hell


2004-07-29
Last day in Magadan


2004-07-28
Another sunny day


2004-07-27
A sunny and very hot day


2004-07-26
Sunny, but emotionally chaotic


2004-07-26
Everything at once


2004-07-26
A big shock have hit the Exped


2004-07-23
Tired but very satisfied


2004-07-22
The Arctic Institute, Magadan


2004-07-21
Magadan, the Russian Far East


2004-07-19
Nice people & too much stress


2004-07-17
Mosquitos, noise and pollution


2004-07-17
Cloudy, the odd rainfall, warm


2004-07-17
Adventure Club of Russia


2004-07-06
A week before leaving!


2004-04-13
Second report from Särna


2004-04-12
Johans second report!


2003-11-30
1:st report from Särna


2003-11-28
Johans first report from home



 
2004-09-09 - Ruslan

We´ve pitched the cot on a sandbank at N 64°03´45.4 and E 154°25´18.9, overcast and raining most of the day, it feels like a threat of worse weather to come, 2-14°C, light winds from NEN throughout the day, we´ve paddled 49 km;s. 9th of September.

As promised, the 3rd of 4 stories from our visit in Seimchan:

When we entered one of Seimchans many shops, all filled to the brink with goods, Ruslan laughed embarrassingly and said:
´´So much to buy, but so few with the money to do so!´´
Ruslan´s one of the friendliest characters one can encounter. Dignified, interested, full of joy, intelligent, with a profound conscious and very active mind. He was brought up in Magadan, has a university degree in economy and one as a bear scientist, and he had moved to Seimchan together with three other people from Magadan, to take care and run Seimchan politically and care for its administrative section. He also moved there because he reckoned the potential for future development were enormous, even though it was difficult to get those who ran the country in the west to understand this fact.
´´I haven´t received my wage for some time´´, he said, ´´but I can manage. There´s plenty of people here which suffers much more.´´

We left the shops and drove to his little datja, a small green house, which was full of tomatoes, capsicum, potatoes and other vegetables. He immediately gave us 2 kilos of spuds as a gift.
´´I take care of this datja together with my parents´´, he said and pointed at a 3-storied white and scruffy apartment bloc not far away, ´´they joined me from Magadan.´´
Everyone we came across had their own datja, which they took care of meticulously and which was the base of their survival.
´´When my girlfriend is visiting me´´, he continued, ´´she helps me.´´
His girlfriend studied in Magadan and they met when possible. Even though there´s a road between Magadan and Seimchan, approx 500 k ;s, much depends on the weather, whether it is possible to meet or not..
´´If all goes well, it´s only a 8 hours drive, but sometimes it is 24 hours, at times one just have to turn back´´, he laughed at the same time as he continued to drive us around in a run-down Toyota, once imported by boat directly from Japan to Magadan.

We first of all visited the abandoned airfield. It´s mmain building was constructed in timber ten years ago. It was still beautiful, at least compared to the restaurant, which was a ruin.
´´A terrible businessman started all this, but a year later it all went bankrupt. This is one of the major problems here, bad and unserious businessmen´´, he explained during the time we passed an uncountable amount of industries and farms in shambles and ruins.
The biggest problem in Seimchan, though, in the perspective of moving the development ahead, was the fact that more than 50% of the inhabitants in Seimchan was retired people.
´´But I still see a positive future´´, he explained emotionally, ´´as long as the people who run the country discover this jewel called Seimchan.´´
Ruslan was also a modern thinker in another sense, he actually asked us if he was allowed to smoke when we were together! The normal rule is otherwise, that people here consider us odd for not enjoying to smoke or that we don´t want to smoke our lungs into pieces. On top of this, it was refreshing to meet Ruslan and his friends, all well educated, young and from Magadan, who, as a change, considered the days of the Soviet regime with loathe, really felt happy that Russia´s borders was opening to the west and that all Russians now became part of the rest of the global community. They were also, very unusual again, positive regarding the future for Russia and its people. Most of the people we´ve come across so far, even though they´ve been great people, have been openly negative and missed the days of the Sovjet regime for different reasons. Most are old and either they miss those days because they´ve lost their former privileges or they fear the uncertainty which always follow
s a major change.

Even though I am aging, gee, thank God for the young ones! With Russians like Ruslan and his friends, Russia has a great future to come!

Ruslan



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