Dispatches

2005-05-24
Final report from Sweden


2005-05-01
Moscow - stress and tiredness


2005-04-27
No plane arrived today!


2005-04-25
The return trip


2005-04-23
We made it


2005-04-19
Freedom


2005-04-17
Serious thoughts regarding...


2005-04-14
The son of two murdered...


2005-04-12
Conversations in a Siberian...


2005-04-10
We´ve made it to Chersky!


2005-04-07
How to stay married...


2005-04-05
Enjoying life in the tent


2005-04-03
Goodbye Kolymskaya


2005-04-01
The last stretch coming up


2005-03-30
A visit to nomadic Chukchi...


2005-03-28
The art of getting close...


2005-03-27
The Chukchi


2005-03-24
The life of a young trapper...


2005-03-20
The village of Kolymskaya


2005-03-18
Looking back on...


2005-03-16
What a spectacular welcome


2005-03-14
Elena - the first female...


2005-03-10
There´s no easy days...


2005-03-08
Tired after eight months...


2005-03-06
The scenery along Kolyma


2005-03-03
Living in a tent...


2005-03-01
Staying another day for 5 kg:s


2005-02-27
A frostbite and a hard slog


2005-02-24
On the move again


2005-02-22
Still in Chirkovo


2005-02-20
Great humanity shown at Chirko


2005-02-18
The life of a Taiga hunter


2005-02-15
Staying put


2005-02-14
Complications


2005-02-11
Minor problems


2005-02-08
Rough start


2005-02-06
What a difference!


2005-02-05
Worries regarding failure


2005-02-01
Lost in translation


2005-01-31
Final preparations


2005-01-27
A small note on worshipping...


2005-01-25
Making a documentary


2005-01-23
Helpful Yakuts


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 2


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 1


2005-01-17
The Second World War


2005-01-16
The Even babuschka


2005-01-12
Total lack of motivation


2005-01-10
The reality of buying food


2005-01-07
Conversations


2005-01-05
Traveling on a Winter road


2005-01-03
Regarding the equipment


2005-01-02
The true Siberians


2004-12-29
What does you parents think?


2004-12-27
Nasha and Dima, part 2


2004-12-26
A visit to Nasha and Dima


2004-12-23
The yakut Valodja


2004-12-21
Local cuisine & thoughts a pro


2004-12-19
Alexei in Ambar


2004-12-16
We´ve made it to Srednekolymsk


2004-12-13
-57°F!


2004-12-13
We´re closing in


2004-12-11
Tired - but positive!


2004-12-08
The dark side of Kolyma


2004-12-07
Don´t worry, be happy!


2004-12-06
Problems in -43,6°F


2004-12-02
Fatigue


2004-12-02
Sleeping in a tent at -43°C


2004-11-29
The Russian word normal


2004-11-25
A terrible day


2004-11-25
I´ve never been this cold befo


2004-11-23
Almost unbearably cold


2004-11-23
First frost bite!


2004-11-16
It´s time to face the cold!


2004-11-14
True Siberians!


2004-11-11
Dogs along the Kolyma


2004-11-09
A Siberian settlement of today


2004-11-07
The yugahirs as told by Ljuba


2004-11-04
Meeting with a yugahir shaman?


2004-11-02
The youth in Zyryanka


2004-10-31
Violetta and her son Krilli


2004-10-28
What do people in Zyryanka do?


2004-10-26
Rat hunting


2004-10-24
Accused of terrorism


2004-10-21
Visit to a yakut family


2004-10-19
Reflections


2004-10-17
En iblick från Olga och Vadim


2004-10-14
The technical equipment


2004-10-12
We made it to Zyryanka


2004-10-10
Will we make it?


2004-10-07
Self contemplation


2004-10-05
Cold paddling


2004-10-03
Vodka


2004-09-30
Sighting of a Siberian wolf


2004-09-28
Worries!


2004-09-26
A hunting story from our camp


2004-09-23
Winter is on it´s way


2004-09-22
Johan´s two month summary


2004-09-20
Tale about Andre & Valentin


2004-09-16
Primitive living


2004-09-14
Close and dangerous encounter


2004-09-13
The worst of prisonercamps


2004-09-09
Ruslan


2004-09-08
Great scenery


2004-09-05
A hunters tale


2004-09-02
The settlement of Seimchan


2004-08-28
Gnats and molded bread.


2004-08-28
Gnats


2004-08-28
Problem 2


2004-08-28
Problem


2004-08-26
Great fishing


2004-08-24
Johans Impressions


2004-08-24
500 km!


2004-08-22
Autumn


2004-08-19
Freezing day


2004-08-18
Sasha


2004-08-18
Arrival at civilization


2004-08-18
Time thriller


2004-08-18
Getting closer to civilization


2004-08-14
The worst moment of life?


2004-08-14
A day of Siberian civilization


2004-08-12
Beach camp


2004-08-11
Amazing encounter!


2004-08-11
A extremely sunny day


2004-08-10
Rest day at the Grayling River


2004-08-10
Highlight of life


2004-08-10
Beautiful weather


2004-08-10
The cyclon has arived!


2004-08-06
Finally Kolyma!


2004-08-05
Back and going strong!


2004-08-02
Stuck in the Kulu River


2004-08-01
Sunny, 6.7 m/s southerly wind


2004-07-31
Kulu River 14 degrees, raining


2004-07-30
Between heaven and hell


2004-07-29
Last day in Magadan


2004-07-28
Another sunny day


2004-07-27
A sunny and very hot day


2004-07-26
Sunny, but emotionally chaotic


2004-07-26
Everything at once


2004-07-26
A big shock have hit the Exped


2004-07-23
Tired but very satisfied


2004-07-22
The Arctic Institute, Magadan


2004-07-21
Magadan, the Russian Far East


2004-07-19
Nice people & too much stress


2004-07-17
Mosquitos, noise and pollution


2004-07-17
Cloudy, the odd rainfall, warm


2004-07-17
Adventure Club of Russia


2004-07-06
A week before leaving!


2004-04-13
Second report from Särna


2004-04-12
Johans second report!


2003-11-30
1:st report from Särna


2003-11-28
Johans first report from home



 
2004-07-27 - A sunny and very hot day

The positive aspect of life during these last days of planning before the true Expedition start, is that there’s no room for neither the joys nor sorrows of life. Therefore I haven’t had time to long for my beloved Titti.

For the first time since we arrived in Magadan, we’ve slept more than five hours. It’s been a major problem adjusting ones body to Magadan time. Until this past night we’ve awoken at 3 am every morning, after merely 3-5 hours sleep. We aunt complaining, but that’s a fact. So when waking up at 7 am this morning, we hit the Russian studies immediately for two hours, followed by an interview by the biggest local TV-station here in Magadan. An interview which we’ve just seen on a black-and-white TV. We came third on the headline news. Just after the problem that the city is experiencing with garbage all over the town and the creation of a spa on the outskirts of town. But before the weather report. This was our second appearance on Russian TV since our arrival. It is an interesting way to study the ways of life. There are two different types of journalists. One older journalist from the Soviet times and than a younger variety from the new Russia. They’re, like the Russian society as a whole, split in two parts. The Soviet era ones, they ask questions like: Why do you do it? Are you aware of the major problems that exist in Magadan and our society? Do you understand the dangers facing you along the Kolyma River? And they never question your motives. The younger ones do. And they think it’s exciting and they wish they had the guts to do the same. We noticed another curious occurrence during our press conference in Moscow. For example, when the young journalists asked us a question, we noticed that the older ones didn’t write down the answers, and it worked the same way when the old ones asked ask questions, the young ones ignored the answers!

After the interview, Wes continued working out the logistics together with Dr Arkady Maximov how to get transported to the source of the river Kolyma. No easy thing. It is at least 450 km:s of extremely poor roads and we have no idea yet where we will end up. And we’ve realized that we’ve probably undervalued the true distance we have to paddle until the arrival of the winter ice will make paddling impossible, since we have to start far up a parallel river which eventually will end at the source of the river. On top of that, we’ve gone through the logistics of how to be rescued if something happens. Utterly boring subjects for us, but since none here believe we will make it all the way, we have to suffer…

We’ve spent the rest of the day exploring the shops in Magadan together with Natasha Maximova. We’ve searched for frying pans, plastic cups and barbeque wire. One thing is for sure, one is never too old to learn! Even though we always make the same mistake, believing in people living far from the actual place, we figured people in Moscow new what they were talking about when it regarded Magadan and the possibilities to find decent gear in town. They said that Magadan was falling apart and that it would be impossible to find anything modern. The truth is that you can find anything needed for an explorer here! Digital cameras, lithium batteries, medicine, axes…name it, you’ll find it in Magadan! Even cheaper than at home. The problem is finding non modern things like plastic mugs..they only have Teflon mugs and such…and steel wire….. Every day is another lesson in the hard school of life!

Johan, or Ivan, as he´s called is interviewed by TV Magadan.


Most people in we´ve met in Magadan seems to miss the orderly times under the Sovietregime.


Working out the logistics with Dr Arkady Maximov, how we will be transported to the source of the Kolyma River. No easy thing...We still don´t know where we will end up.



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