Dispatches

2005-05-24
Final report from Sweden


2005-05-01
Moscow - stress and tiredness


2005-04-27
No plane arrived today!


2005-04-25
The return trip


2005-04-23
We made it


2005-04-19
Freedom


2005-04-17
Serious thoughts regarding...


2005-04-14
The son of two murdered...


2005-04-12
Conversations in a Siberian...


2005-04-10
We´ve made it to Chersky!


2005-04-07
How to stay married...


2005-04-05
Enjoying life in the tent


2005-04-03
Goodbye Kolymskaya


2005-04-01
The last stretch coming up


2005-03-30
A visit to nomadic Chukchi...


2005-03-28
The art of getting close...


2005-03-27
The Chukchi


2005-03-24
The life of a young trapper...


2005-03-20
The village of Kolymskaya


2005-03-18
Looking back on...


2005-03-16
What a spectacular welcome


2005-03-14
Elena - the first female...


2005-03-10
There´s no easy days...


2005-03-08
Tired after eight months...


2005-03-06
The scenery along Kolyma


2005-03-03
Living in a tent...


2005-03-01
Staying another day for 5 kg:s


2005-02-27
A frostbite and a hard slog


2005-02-24
On the move again


2005-02-22
Still in Chirkovo


2005-02-20
Great humanity shown at Chirko


2005-02-18
The life of a Taiga hunter


2005-02-15
Staying put


2005-02-14
Complications


2005-02-11
Minor problems


2005-02-08
Rough start


2005-02-06
What a difference!


2005-02-05
Worries regarding failure


2005-02-01
Lost in translation


2005-01-31
Final preparations


2005-01-27
A small note on worshipping...


2005-01-25
Making a documentary


2005-01-23
Helpful Yakuts


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 2


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 1


2005-01-17
The Second World War


2005-01-16
The Even babuschka


2005-01-12
Total lack of motivation


2005-01-10
The reality of buying food


2005-01-07
Conversations


2005-01-05
Traveling on a Winter road


2005-01-03
Regarding the equipment


2005-01-02
The true Siberians


2004-12-29
What does you parents think?


2004-12-27
Nasha and Dima, part 2


2004-12-26
A visit to Nasha and Dima


2004-12-23
The yakut Valodja


2004-12-21
Local cuisine & thoughts a pro


2004-12-19
Alexei in Ambar


2004-12-16
We´ve made it to Srednekolymsk


2004-12-13
-57°F!


2004-12-13
We´re closing in


2004-12-11
Tired - but positive!


2004-12-08
The dark side of Kolyma


2004-12-07
Don´t worry, be happy!


2004-12-06
Problems in -43,6°F


2004-12-02
Fatigue


2004-12-02
Sleeping in a tent at -43°C


2004-11-29
The Russian word normal


2004-11-25
A terrible day


2004-11-25
I´ve never been this cold befo


2004-11-23
Almost unbearably cold


2004-11-23
First frost bite!


2004-11-16
It´s time to face the cold!


2004-11-14
True Siberians!


2004-11-11
Dogs along the Kolyma


2004-11-09
A Siberian settlement of today


2004-11-07
The yugahirs as told by Ljuba


2004-11-04
Meeting with a yugahir shaman?


2004-11-02
The youth in Zyryanka


2004-10-31
Violetta and her son Krilli


2004-10-28
What do people in Zyryanka do?


2004-10-26
Rat hunting


2004-10-24
Accused of terrorism


2004-10-21
Visit to a yakut family


2004-10-19
Reflections


2004-10-17
En iblick från Olga och Vadim


2004-10-14
The technical equipment


2004-10-12
We made it to Zyryanka


2004-10-10
Will we make it?


2004-10-07
Self contemplation


2004-10-05
Cold paddling


2004-10-03
Vodka


2004-09-30
Sighting of a Siberian wolf


2004-09-28
Worries!


2004-09-26
A hunting story from our camp


2004-09-23
Winter is on it´s way


2004-09-22
Johan´s two month summary


2004-09-20
Tale about Andre & Valentin


2004-09-16
Primitive living


2004-09-14
Close and dangerous encounter


2004-09-13
The worst of prisonercamps


2004-09-09
Ruslan


2004-09-08
Great scenery


2004-09-05
A hunters tale


2004-09-02
The settlement of Seimchan


2004-08-28
Gnats and molded bread.


2004-08-28
Gnats


2004-08-28
Problem 2


2004-08-28
Problem


2004-08-26
Great fishing


2004-08-24
Johans Impressions


2004-08-24
500 km!


2004-08-22
Autumn


2004-08-19
Freezing day


2004-08-18
Sasha


2004-08-18
Arrival at civilization


2004-08-18
Time thriller


2004-08-18
Getting closer to civilization


2004-08-14
The worst moment of life?


2004-08-14
A day of Siberian civilization


2004-08-12
Beach camp


2004-08-11
Amazing encounter!


2004-08-11
A extremely sunny day


2004-08-10
Rest day at the Grayling River


2004-08-10
Highlight of life


2004-08-10
Beautiful weather


2004-08-10
The cyclon has arived!


2004-08-06
Finally Kolyma!


2004-08-05
Back and going strong!


2004-08-02
Stuck in the Kulu River


2004-08-01
Sunny, 6.7 m/s southerly wind


2004-07-31
Kulu River 14 degrees, raining


2004-07-30
Between heaven and hell


2004-07-29
Last day in Magadan


2004-07-28
Another sunny day


2004-07-27
A sunny and very hot day


2004-07-26
Sunny, but emotionally chaotic


2004-07-26
Everything at once


2004-07-26
A big shock have hit the Exped


2004-07-23
Tired but very satisfied


2004-07-22
The Arctic Institute, Magadan


2004-07-21
Magadan, the Russian Far East


2004-07-19
Nice people & too much stress


2004-07-17
Mosquitos, noise and pollution


2004-07-17
Cloudy, the odd rainfall, warm


2004-07-17
Adventure Club of Russia


2004-07-06
A week before leaving!


2004-04-13
Second report from Särna


2004-04-12
Johans second report!


2003-11-30
1:st report from Särna


2003-11-28
Johans first report from home



 
2005-03-24 - The life of a young trapper...

The life of a young trapper along the Kolyma

24 Mar, 05 - 11:56
GPS-pos: N68°43´ | E158°42´ | Alt: 9 M
It is March the 23rd today and temperatures have fallen again after a few days of incredible warmth. Lovely weather today, not a single cloud in the sky, -8°F and a chilly northerly wind. One of our lady friends here just stopped by to say that she had to go away for a few days. She missed her daughter, who´s away studying, so much so she didn´t mind travelling all the way to Cherskii, a trip of 180 km:s one way, to be able to call her. Amazing! Mothers are the same everywhere.

Written by another young man, Johan Ivarsson

´´Sure, it´s lonely sometimes´´, Mikhail tells us while he keeps working on one of his traps.

He´s sitting on a chair right next to his bed in a small, but very cosy, log cabin situated 150 km:s from the closest community, Srednekolymsk. He grabs another trap from the pile and continues:
´´But I have my dogs of course´´, he says whilst making a gesture with his hand towards the window, ´´they keep me company and it helps talking to them.´´

Mikhail is 26 years old, half Russian and half Yakut, and he´s one of very few young trappers that we´ve met along the Kolyma. He´s wearing a pair of green military pants, a striped blue and white shirt, and his hands is covered by a pair of thin gloves to enable him to work with the traps without hurting his fingers. His cabin is different from most other one´s that we´ve come across along the Kolyma, especially the one´s in which young trappers live, because this one is unusually clean, well organized and there isn´t any junk lying around like it normally does. The cabin has both a communication and short-wave radio, all kitchen equipment needed, three bunks and a well working pietshka (wood stove), on which he cooks. And Mikhail is an excellent chef, just like everyone else along the Kolyma. He also have a pile of books and car-magazines under the bed in which he reads every day.

It´s only his second year as a trapper but he seems to be quite happy with his life. He´s got as much as 25 traps placed a couple of kilometres around the house and along the shoreline of the Kolyma, which he checks everyday in the hope that he´s caught a hare, a sobel or maybe a fox. And his trapping has worked out quite well. At least if one measures the amount of hares that is hanging in the tree outside the cabin. Six of them. He´s also a good fisherman, which we clearly can se on the big pile of fish in the storage room. And every second day he has to travel a distance of 20 km:s with the help of a dogsled, since he doesn´t have a buran (snowmobile), to check his nets.

´´I´ve always been interested in hunting and fishing´´ , he answers when we ask why he wanted to be a trapper, ´´and I really love the beauty of the nature out here.´´
He concentrates on the trap he is working on and becomes quiet for a while, but then continues:
´´There´s a lot of hard work, though, especially since I don´t have a buran of my own. I´ve been waiting for my friends to come and supply me with some more food and products for the last three weeks now, but I heard on the radio that their Buran broke down only 25 km:s from here and they had to turn back. I don´t know when they will be able to make another try to get here.´´
This doesn´t seem to bother him that much, though, and he will be alright as long as the luck of hunting and fishing continues.

We´ve travelled for eight months now and almost covered the whole length of the Kolyma river, from south to north. And during this time we´ve only met a handful of young trappers under the age of 30. Why is that? When we ask Mikhail that question, he is quick to answer:
´´They have no interest in the great outdoors, there´s no computers, internet or discos to be found out here. Everyone I know wants to move to the central part of Russia, to the big cities where there´s more opportunities.´´
The old hunters we´ve spoken to say the same thing, but they also add that the life of a trapper is to hard for the youth of Kolyma these days.
´´They want to have a nice, well paid job, where they don´t have to fight to survive? ,they tell us and continues normally by adding: ´´Kolyma is not part of their soul. And the very few who really have an interest in this life and who would like to live as a hunter, don´t have the money for it. It´s not cheap to become a hunter, you know, you have to get a cabin to live in, a buran, or at least a boat, and licenses for hunting areas. And then, of course, you have to know how to be a trapper!´´

The future for the over ageless and old traditions of hunting and fishing along the Kolyma is threatened, and maybe the villages as well. Most young people move away after school for further studies or in search of a life which they consider being a brighter future than they will find along the Kolyma, and few return.
?What kind of future do expect yourself?? I ask him and add: ?Will you continue as hunter??
´´Probably´´, he answers quickly and then continues after some thinking, ´´but then again, it would be nice to meet a pretty girl which I could marry.´´

We all have our dreams in life!

Mikhail, one of very few young trappers along the Kolyma



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