Dispatches

2005-05-24
Final report from Sweden


2005-05-01
Moscow - stress and tiredness


2005-04-27
No plane arrived today!


2005-04-25
The return trip


2005-04-23
We made it


2005-04-19
Freedom


2005-04-17
Serious thoughts regarding...


2005-04-14
The son of two murdered...


2005-04-12
Conversations in a Siberian...


2005-04-10
We´ve made it to Chersky!


2005-04-07
How to stay married...


2005-04-05
Enjoying life in the tent


2005-04-03
Goodbye Kolymskaya


2005-04-01
The last stretch coming up


2005-03-30
A visit to nomadic Chukchi...


2005-03-28
The art of getting close...


2005-03-27
The Chukchi


2005-03-24
The life of a young trapper...


2005-03-20
The village of Kolymskaya


2005-03-18
Looking back on...


2005-03-16
What a spectacular welcome


2005-03-14
Elena - the first female...


2005-03-10
There´s no easy days...


2005-03-08
Tired after eight months...


2005-03-06
The scenery along Kolyma


2005-03-03
Living in a tent...


2005-03-01
Staying another day for 5 kg:s


2005-02-27
A frostbite and a hard slog


2005-02-24
On the move again


2005-02-22
Still in Chirkovo


2005-02-20
Great humanity shown at Chirko


2005-02-18
The life of a Taiga hunter


2005-02-15
Staying put


2005-02-14
Complications


2005-02-11
Minor problems


2005-02-08
Rough start


2005-02-06
What a difference!


2005-02-05
Worries regarding failure


2005-02-01
Lost in translation


2005-01-31
Final preparations


2005-01-27
A small note on worshipping...


2005-01-25
Making a documentary


2005-01-23
Helpful Yakuts


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 2


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 1


2005-01-17
The Second World War


2005-01-16
The Even babuschka


2005-01-12
Total lack of motivation


2005-01-10
The reality of buying food


2005-01-07
Conversations


2005-01-05
Traveling on a Winter road


2005-01-03
Regarding the equipment


2005-01-02
The true Siberians


2004-12-29
What does you parents think?


2004-12-27
Nasha and Dima, part 2


2004-12-26
A visit to Nasha and Dima


2004-12-23
The yakut Valodja


2004-12-21
Local cuisine & thoughts a pro


2004-12-19
Alexei in Ambar


2004-12-16
We´ve made it to Srednekolymsk


2004-12-13
-57°F!


2004-12-13
We´re closing in


2004-12-11
Tired - but positive!


2004-12-08
The dark side of Kolyma


2004-12-07
Don´t worry, be happy!


2004-12-06
Problems in -43,6°F


2004-12-02
Fatigue


2004-12-02
Sleeping in a tent at -43°C


2004-11-29
The Russian word normal


2004-11-25
A terrible day


2004-11-25
I´ve never been this cold befo


2004-11-23
Almost unbearably cold


2004-11-23
First frost bite!


2004-11-16
It´s time to face the cold!


2004-11-14
True Siberians!


2004-11-11
Dogs along the Kolyma


2004-11-09
A Siberian settlement of today


2004-11-07
The yugahirs as told by Ljuba


2004-11-04
Meeting with a yugahir shaman?


2004-11-02
The youth in Zyryanka


2004-10-31
Violetta and her son Krilli


2004-10-28
What do people in Zyryanka do?


2004-10-26
Rat hunting


2004-10-24
Accused of terrorism


2004-10-21
Visit to a yakut family


2004-10-19
Reflections


2004-10-17
En iblick från Olga och Vadim


2004-10-14
The technical equipment


2004-10-12
We made it to Zyryanka


2004-10-10
Will we make it?


2004-10-07
Self contemplation


2004-10-05
Cold paddling


2004-10-03
Vodka


2004-09-30
Sighting of a Siberian wolf


2004-09-28
Worries!


2004-09-26
A hunting story from our camp


2004-09-23
Winter is on it´s way


2004-09-22
Johan´s two month summary


2004-09-20
Tale about Andre & Valentin


2004-09-16
Primitive living


2004-09-14
Close and dangerous encounter


2004-09-13
The worst of prisonercamps


2004-09-09
Ruslan


2004-09-08
Great scenery


2004-09-05
A hunters tale


2004-09-02
The settlement of Seimchan


2004-08-28
Gnats and molded bread.


2004-08-28
Gnats


2004-08-28
Problem 2


2004-08-28
Problem


2004-08-26
Great fishing


2004-08-24
Johans Impressions


2004-08-24
500 km!


2004-08-22
Autumn


2004-08-19
Freezing day


2004-08-18
Sasha


2004-08-18
Arrival at civilization


2004-08-18
Time thriller


2004-08-18
Getting closer to civilization


2004-08-14
The worst moment of life?


2004-08-14
A day of Siberian civilization


2004-08-12
Beach camp


2004-08-11
Amazing encounter!


2004-08-11
A extremely sunny day


2004-08-10
Rest day at the Grayling River


2004-08-10
Highlight of life


2004-08-10
Beautiful weather


2004-08-10
The cyclon has arived!


2004-08-06
Finally Kolyma!


2004-08-05
Back and going strong!


2004-08-02
Stuck in the Kulu River


2004-08-01
Sunny, 6.7 m/s southerly wind


2004-07-31
Kulu River 14 degrees, raining


2004-07-30
Between heaven and hell


2004-07-29
Last day in Magadan


2004-07-28
Another sunny day


2004-07-27
A sunny and very hot day


2004-07-26
Sunny, but emotionally chaotic


2004-07-26
Everything at once


2004-07-26
A big shock have hit the Exped


2004-07-23
Tired but very satisfied


2004-07-22
The Arctic Institute, Magadan


2004-07-21
Magadan, the Russian Far East


2004-07-19
Nice people & too much stress


2004-07-17
Mosquitos, noise and pollution


2004-07-17
Cloudy, the odd rainfall, warm


2004-07-17
Adventure Club of Russia


2004-07-06
A week before leaving!


2004-04-13
Second report from Särna


2004-04-12
Johans second report!


2003-11-30
1:st report from Särna


2003-11-28
Johans first report from home



 
2005-02-01 - Lost in translation

1 Feb, 05 - 22:40
GPS-pos: N67°28´ | E153°42´ | Alt: 11 M
It is the first of February today, -22°F, a strong southerly have hit us, but we understand that this heat wave is just visiting us briefly and that the extreme cold will soon return. But winds will stay. We´re still in Srednekolymsk. We don´t want to leave until we´ve shown our appreciation to everybody who has helped us during our visit, so we´ve spent the day walking around town, thanking people. At least that was our intention?.

I should have known the minute I heard it knocking on the door early this morning. That a terrible day of misunderstandings was on its way in. It was our neighbor from the flat below us. The same alcoholic neighbor, who together with his alcoholic wife, has kept us awake a third of all nights we´ve lived in the apartment with constant quarrels, fights and with the TV continually turned up on maximum volume. Since we´re happy just to be indoors, we´ve ignored it.
´´It´s my birthday today!´´ ,he hollered drunkenly at the same time as he burst into the apartment swinging a frozen white salmon, the schirr and yelled; ´´I´m 59!´´
At the same time as I stuck my hand out to greet him, he thrust the frozen fish in my gut. Now, I am the first to admit that a frozen schirr is one of the best gifts, since it makes the best straganina, but I am utterly against the use of it as a weapon. Fortunately, Johan in his short underwear, quickly grabbed the fish, to avoid further aggression. The neighbor immediately brought out both his passports, the one during the Soviet Era and the new Russian one. As proof of his age. With bodily movements he also showed us that he was still sexually active. Than he started a 20 minute drunken political monologue where we understood that he considered us as spies, that he thought that it was shameful the way Sweden assisted the Nazis during the Second World War and how brave he was himself during this nasty war. Even though it ended a year before he was born. After a while I got fed up with his abuse, since I have a cold and therefore have no patience at all, and shouted euphorically in Russian:
´´Really fantastic to hear!´´
These words made him explode with anger and abuse! Johan, who actively listened until the end, thinks that my remarks came at the wrong time, when the drunken neighbor ranted on about all the Russians that got killed during the war. Terrible mistake again due to the language barrier! No wonder we greeted Julia with joy, our excellent Ukrainian translator, when she arrived at our apartment a couple of hours later to help us with other translations that needed to be done. At least until she uttered the following truth:
´´You are sinners and will burn in hell!´´
I just want to say that she meant no harm. But since she´s a Baptist and since they consider everybody a sinner until they´ve acknowledged the right way to Salvation, she just wanted to make us aware that we, together with 99.99 % of the world population, are going to burn in hell. And during the upcoming hour she lectured us in a way so that my cold changed to a flue and Johans normally pale face turned to the color of rage. After that, utterly exhausted, we all three headed down to the White House, as the local government building is called in Srednekolymsk, to thank the mayor for the great assistance he has given us during our visit. Or at least we tried. Unfortunately we got on to the subject of how we tried to document the extreme cold through our camera lenses. And since I have a habit of trying to pass the odd funny joke, but truthful, in all serious conversations, I explained how we had noticed that when you have a dump outdoors in this extreme cold, the crap almost freezes before it hits the ground. And that we therefore had noticed that many outdoor toilets in Srednekolymsk had mounds of shit the size of an Eiffel Tower. Either it was a bad joke or it, once again, got lost in the translation, because it didn´t go down well with the Mayor.
´´Well, I know we´re still not fully modernized yet´´ , he hissed with anger and continued: ´´I had no idea that you two, who I trusted, would disgrace Srednekolymsk with filming crap like this!´´
I spent half an hour, through Julia, asking him to forgive me and to try to get him to understand that it was a misunderstanding.
´´It´s a joke´´ , I said, ´´nothing else. Just a joke about the problems involved in trying to describe the extreme cold through a camera lens.´´
Something got lost in the translation again.
´´I thought you had come here to promote this region to attract tourist´´ he continued very angered: ´´Not to show any proof that we´re still in the Ice Age! Your film will scare away tourists, not attract them!´´
It took an hour to calm things down. We left the Mayor, me feeling utterly misunderstood and sad. We wanted to go back to the flat and hide, but instead we ended up at the local newspaper. The chief-editor wanted to make an interview before we left. But when we sat down to be interviewed, he was still stunned by the news that had traveled there before us, namely that we didn´t use fur clothes whilst skiing and that we lived in a tent with no heating!
´´You´ve gotta be out of your mind!´´ he exclaimed and spent an hour trying to get us to understand our mistakes in choosing modern polar equipment and therefore completely forgot the interview.

Another day of giant misunderstandings bites the dust.

The misunderstood one in front of the White House



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