Dispatches

2005-05-24
Final report from Sweden


2005-05-01
Moscow - stress and tiredness


2005-04-27
No plane arrived today!


2005-04-25
The return trip


2005-04-23
We made it


2005-04-19
Freedom


2005-04-17
Serious thoughts regarding...


2005-04-14
The son of two murdered...


2005-04-12
Conversations in a Siberian...


2005-04-10
We´ve made it to Chersky!


2005-04-07
How to stay married...


2005-04-05
Enjoying life in the tent


2005-04-03
Goodbye Kolymskaya


2005-04-01
The last stretch coming up


2005-03-30
A visit to nomadic Chukchi...


2005-03-28
The art of getting close...


2005-03-27
The Chukchi


2005-03-24
The life of a young trapper...


2005-03-20
The village of Kolymskaya


2005-03-18
Looking back on...


2005-03-16
What a spectacular welcome


2005-03-14
Elena - the first female...


2005-03-10
There´s no easy days...


2005-03-08
Tired after eight months...


2005-03-06
The scenery along Kolyma


2005-03-03
Living in a tent...


2005-03-01
Staying another day for 5 kg:s


2005-02-27
A frostbite and a hard slog


2005-02-24
On the move again


2005-02-22
Still in Chirkovo


2005-02-20
Great humanity shown at Chirko


2005-02-18
The life of a Taiga hunter


2005-02-15
Staying put


2005-02-14
Complications


2005-02-11
Minor problems


2005-02-08
Rough start


2005-02-06
What a difference!


2005-02-05
Worries regarding failure


2005-02-01
Lost in translation


2005-01-31
Final preparations


2005-01-27
A small note on worshipping...


2005-01-25
Making a documentary


2005-01-23
Helpful Yakuts


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 2


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 1


2005-01-17
The Second World War


2005-01-16
The Even babuschka


2005-01-12
Total lack of motivation


2005-01-10
The reality of buying food


2005-01-07
Conversations


2005-01-05
Traveling on a Winter road


2005-01-03
Regarding the equipment


2005-01-02
The true Siberians


2004-12-29
What does you parents think?


2004-12-27
Nasha and Dima, part 2


2004-12-26
A visit to Nasha and Dima


2004-12-23
The yakut Valodja


2004-12-21
Local cuisine & thoughts a pro


2004-12-19
Alexei in Ambar


2004-12-16
We´ve made it to Srednekolymsk


2004-12-13
-57°F!


2004-12-13
We´re closing in


2004-12-11
Tired - but positive!


2004-12-08
The dark side of Kolyma


2004-12-07
Don´t worry, be happy!


2004-12-06
Problems in -43,6°F


2004-12-02
Fatigue


2004-12-02
Sleeping in a tent at -43°C


2004-11-29
The Russian word normal


2004-11-25
A terrible day


2004-11-25
I´ve never been this cold befo


2004-11-23
Almost unbearably cold


2004-11-23
First frost bite!


2004-11-16
It´s time to face the cold!


2004-11-14
True Siberians!


2004-11-11
Dogs along the Kolyma


2004-11-09
A Siberian settlement of today


2004-11-07
The yugahirs as told by Ljuba


2004-11-04
Meeting with a yugahir shaman?


2004-11-02
The youth in Zyryanka


2004-10-31
Violetta and her son Krilli


2004-10-28
What do people in Zyryanka do?


2004-10-26
Rat hunting


2004-10-24
Accused of terrorism


2004-10-21
Visit to a yakut family


2004-10-19
Reflections


2004-10-17
En iblick från Olga och Vadim


2004-10-14
The technical equipment


2004-10-12
We made it to Zyryanka


2004-10-10
Will we make it?


2004-10-07
Self contemplation


2004-10-05
Cold paddling


2004-10-03
Vodka


2004-09-30
Sighting of a Siberian wolf


2004-09-28
Worries!


2004-09-26
A hunting story from our camp


2004-09-23
Winter is on it´s way


2004-09-22
Johan´s two month summary


2004-09-20
Tale about Andre & Valentin


2004-09-16
Primitive living


2004-09-14
Close and dangerous encounter


2004-09-13
The worst of prisonercamps


2004-09-09
Ruslan


2004-09-08
Great scenery


2004-09-05
A hunters tale


2004-09-02
The settlement of Seimchan


2004-08-28
Gnats and molded bread.


2004-08-28
Gnats


2004-08-28
Problem 2


2004-08-28
Problem


2004-08-26
Great fishing


2004-08-24
Johans Impressions


2004-08-24
500 km!


2004-08-22
Autumn


2004-08-19
Freezing day


2004-08-18
Sasha


2004-08-18
Arrival at civilization


2004-08-18
Time thriller


2004-08-18
Getting closer to civilization


2004-08-14
The worst moment of life?


2004-08-14
A day of Siberian civilization


2004-08-12
Beach camp


2004-08-11
Amazing encounter!


2004-08-11
A extremely sunny day


2004-08-10
Rest day at the Grayling River


2004-08-10
Highlight of life


2004-08-10
Beautiful weather


2004-08-10
The cyclon has arived!


2004-08-06
Finally Kolyma!


2004-08-05
Back and going strong!


2004-08-02
Stuck in the Kulu River


2004-08-01
Sunny, 6.7 m/s southerly wind


2004-07-31
Kulu River 14 degrees, raining


2004-07-30
Between heaven and hell


2004-07-29
Last day in Magadan


2004-07-28
Another sunny day


2004-07-27
A sunny and very hot day


2004-07-26
Sunny, but emotionally chaotic


2004-07-26
Everything at once


2004-07-26
A big shock have hit the Exped


2004-07-23
Tired but very satisfied


2004-07-22
The Arctic Institute, Magadan


2004-07-21
Magadan, the Russian Far East


2004-07-19
Nice people & too much stress


2004-07-17
Mosquitos, noise and pollution


2004-07-17
Cloudy, the odd rainfall, warm


2004-07-17
Adventure Club of Russia


2004-07-06
A week before leaving!


2004-04-13
Second report from Särna


2004-04-12
Johans second report!


2003-11-30
1:st report from Särna


2003-11-28
Johans first report from home



 
2005-01-20 - The Yakuts - part 2

The Yakuts - a legendary horse people, part 2

20 Jan, 05 - 21:44
GPS-pos: N67°28´ | E153°42´ | Alt: 11 M

Thursday the 20th of January. It is -31°F with a light southerly and overcast here in Srednekolymsk.

The Yakuts, in the same manner as the Patagonian cowboy, name their horses either after how they look or a specific of the nature at the place where they´re born or what weather it is that day. My wife Titti and myself spent a year living together with these southerly cowboys and during our visit to Nalimsk the other day, I realized there are many similarities between these two equestrian cultures. The saddles are more or less the same construction. The Yakuts make them from birch and the style is old traditional Castilian, in Patagonia called recado. The saddle blanket is a work of art. It is made from tangled hairs from the horsetail and it is thick and very comfortable. The same handy work is done with the saddle straps. Hair from the horsetail. Thick, beautiful and comfortable. Everything else is made from leather from either cow or horse. The bite is simple, comfortable and soft. At least in comparison with the Patagonian variety. The stirrups are normally made of birch as well.
´´I bring my horses to drink here every day during the winter´´ , Vasili tells me at the same time as he cuts a whole in the thick ice and, suddenly he looks up and shouts; ´´Look, there are more thirsty horses in this village!´´
Five other Yakut horses trots cautiously our way. They don´t like our hurried movements, our camera flashes and stops. But finally they make their way to the watering hole. Even the tame horses walk freely around the village as they like. Well, at least normally. This winter, however, a big herd of wild caribou have made their way down from the barren tundra in the north to feed in the taiga of this area. And big packs of the giant polar wolves have followed their tracks.
´´These beasts can weigh up to a 100 kg:s´´ , Vasili claims, ´´and they will easily kill my horses and my other cattle in no time. For this reason, we keep a vigilant eye on our horses and even keep them locked up during day time.´´
The Yakut cowboy is as impressive and beautiful as his horse. Vasili is dressed in head cover made of the thick fur of the wolverine, he dons a coat of reindeer skin, his thick fur trousers comes from the laika or husky and his boots are made of the skin and fur from the hind leg of the horse. Same boots as the Patagonian cowboy.
´´Do you know´´ ,Vasili asks me proudly when we´ve returned indoors again, ´´that we Yakuts arrived to this region with our horses and our cattle at the end of the 15th Century? 50 years after the first Russians passed through here on their explorations. It was the horse which brought us here and opened up this vast land to more people than the natives who lived here than? Yugahirs and Evens.´´
In most Yakut villages we´ve visited, we came across plenty of totem poles, monuments from the Soviet Era and wall paintings depicting the horse as the number one symbol of this people. The Yakut name for horse is salgit as a collective name, but the local Kolymskaya horse is called at. And when seeing the Yakut handling his horse, it is easy to see how much they love this intelligent and beautiful animal.
´´You know, if we end up with an aggressive and violent horse or foal, it can take up to a year before we can ride it´´ ,Vasili continues to explain, ´´we never beat or use violence when training a horse. It has to take its time. This is a graceful and sensitive animal. And, I have to point out this, if a person has to beat a horse to make it do what one wants, this person is no horseman. He´s a brute.´´
The Yakuts don´t, as an example of their horsemanship, use a whip, riding stick or anything more brutally big than this to command their horse.
´´I am of the opinion´´ ,Vasili states, ´´that if you´re together with a horse every day for many years and after all this time still needs to beat the horse, you don´t understand horses. A real cowboy knows how to get his horse to do what he wants it to do, without using force.´´
´´It seems like you don´t shoe your horses?´´ I ask.
´´We used to in the old days when we rode big distances and at times ended up in rocky areas´´ ,the old man explains, ´´but we don´t ride any great distances today. And our local surroundings are made up of marshes and forests. You don´t need shoes than. But we do cut their hooves on and off. At least once a year.´´
Before the arrival of communism and the Soviet power in the 1930´s, who relocated all people in the area to a few big villages instead a many small ones, there was a stable every 30 km:s all over the territory. A place where both men and horses could get rest and food. A normal riding distance.
´´Our village Nalimsk was a kolschoz during the Soviet era´´ , Vasili sums up before we leave, ´´we had a fox farm, a pig farm, we farmed tame reindeer and we had a lot more horses than. All this fell apart with the arrival of perestroika. However, no matter what happens in the future, I know our Yakut horses will survive us humans. They´re much wiser, stronger and braver.´´

A Yakut cowboy riding in -58°F (-50°C)



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