Dispatches

2005-05-24
Final report from Sweden


2005-05-01
Moscow - stress and tiredness


2005-04-27
No plane arrived today!


2005-04-25
The return trip


2005-04-23
We made it


2005-04-19
Freedom


2005-04-17
Serious thoughts regarding...


2005-04-14
The son of two murdered...


2005-04-12
Conversations in a Siberian...


2005-04-10
We´ve made it to Chersky!


2005-04-07
How to stay married...


2005-04-05
Enjoying life in the tent


2005-04-03
Goodbye Kolymskaya


2005-04-01
The last stretch coming up


2005-03-30
A visit to nomadic Chukchi...


2005-03-28
The art of getting close...


2005-03-27
The Chukchi


2005-03-24
The life of a young trapper...


2005-03-20
The village of Kolymskaya


2005-03-18
Looking back on...


2005-03-16
What a spectacular welcome


2005-03-14
Elena - the first female...


2005-03-10
There´s no easy days...


2005-03-08
Tired after eight months...


2005-03-06
The scenery along Kolyma


2005-03-03
Living in a tent...


2005-03-01
Staying another day for 5 kg:s


2005-02-27
A frostbite and a hard slog


2005-02-24
On the move again


2005-02-22
Still in Chirkovo


2005-02-20
Great humanity shown at Chirko


2005-02-18
The life of a Taiga hunter


2005-02-15
Staying put


2005-02-14
Complications


2005-02-11
Minor problems


2005-02-08
Rough start


2005-02-06
What a difference!


2005-02-05
Worries regarding failure


2005-02-01
Lost in translation


2005-01-31
Final preparations


2005-01-27
A small note on worshipping...


2005-01-25
Making a documentary


2005-01-23
Helpful Yakuts


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 2


2005-01-20
The Yakuts - part 1


2005-01-17
The Second World War


2005-01-16
The Even babuschka


2005-01-12
Total lack of motivation


2005-01-10
The reality of buying food


2005-01-07
Conversations


2005-01-05
Traveling on a Winter road


2005-01-03
Regarding the equipment


2005-01-02
The true Siberians


2004-12-29
What does you parents think?


2004-12-27
Nasha and Dima, part 2


2004-12-26
A visit to Nasha and Dima


2004-12-23
The yakut Valodja


2004-12-21
Local cuisine & thoughts a pro


2004-12-19
Alexei in Ambar


2004-12-16
We´ve made it to Srednekolymsk


2004-12-13
-57°F!


2004-12-13
We´re closing in


2004-12-11
Tired - but positive!


2004-12-08
The dark side of Kolyma


2004-12-07
Don´t worry, be happy!


2004-12-06
Problems in -43,6°F


2004-12-02
Fatigue


2004-12-02
Sleeping in a tent at -43°C


2004-11-29
The Russian word normal


2004-11-25
A terrible day


2004-11-25
I´ve never been this cold befo


2004-11-23
Almost unbearably cold


2004-11-23
First frost bite!


2004-11-16
It´s time to face the cold!


2004-11-14
True Siberians!


2004-11-11
Dogs along the Kolyma


2004-11-09
A Siberian settlement of today


2004-11-07
The yugahirs as told by Ljuba


2004-11-04
Meeting with a yugahir shaman?


2004-11-02
The youth in Zyryanka


2004-10-31
Violetta and her son Krilli


2004-10-28
What do people in Zyryanka do?


2004-10-26
Rat hunting


2004-10-24
Accused of terrorism


2004-10-21
Visit to a yakut family


2004-10-19
Reflections


2004-10-17
En iblick från Olga och Vadim


2004-10-14
The technical equipment


2004-10-12
We made it to Zyryanka


2004-10-10
Will we make it?


2004-10-07
Self contemplation


2004-10-05
Cold paddling


2004-10-03
Vodka


2004-09-30
Sighting of a Siberian wolf


2004-09-28
Worries!


2004-09-26
A hunting story from our camp


2004-09-23
Winter is on it´s way


2004-09-22
Johan´s two month summary


2004-09-20
Tale about Andre & Valentin


2004-09-16
Primitive living


2004-09-14
Close and dangerous encounter


2004-09-13
The worst of prisonercamps


2004-09-09
Ruslan


2004-09-08
Great scenery


2004-09-05
A hunters tale


2004-09-02
The settlement of Seimchan


2004-08-28
Gnats and molded bread.


2004-08-28
Gnats


2004-08-28
Problem 2


2004-08-28
Problem


2004-08-26
Great fishing


2004-08-24
Johans Impressions


2004-08-24
500 km!


2004-08-22
Autumn


2004-08-19
Freezing day


2004-08-18
Sasha


2004-08-18
Arrival at civilization


2004-08-18
Time thriller


2004-08-18
Getting closer to civilization


2004-08-14
The worst moment of life?


2004-08-14
A day of Siberian civilization


2004-08-12
Beach camp


2004-08-11
Amazing encounter!


2004-08-11
A extremely sunny day


2004-08-10
Rest day at the Grayling River


2004-08-10
Highlight of life


2004-08-10
Beautiful weather


2004-08-10
The cyclon has arived!


2004-08-06
Finally Kolyma!


2004-08-05
Back and going strong!


2004-08-02
Stuck in the Kulu River


2004-08-01
Sunny, 6.7 m/s southerly wind


2004-07-31
Kulu River 14 degrees, raining


2004-07-30
Between heaven and hell


2004-07-29
Last day in Magadan


2004-07-28
Another sunny day


2004-07-27
A sunny and very hot day


2004-07-26
Sunny, but emotionally chaotic


2004-07-26
Everything at once


2004-07-26
A big shock have hit the Exped


2004-07-23
Tired but very satisfied


2004-07-22
The Arctic Institute, Magadan


2004-07-21
Magadan, the Russian Far East


2004-07-19
Nice people & too much stress


2004-07-17
Mosquitos, noise and pollution


2004-07-17
Cloudy, the odd rainfall, warm


2004-07-17
Adventure Club of Russia


2004-07-06
A week before leaving!


2004-04-13
Second report from Särna


2004-04-12
Johans second report!


2003-11-30
1:st report from Särna


2003-11-28
Johans first report from home



 
2005-01-12 - Total lack of motivation

12 Jan, 05 - 21:44
GPS-pos: N67°28´ | E153°42´ | Alt: 11 M
Written by Johan Ivarsson

It is the12th of January today in the year of 2005. We´re in our apartment in Srednekolymsk.
The temperature today is -51°F (-46°C). Almost no wind and a clear blue sky.

We went to buy a thermometer at the local drugstore today, since the digital one´s we brought with us from back home stops working when the temperature drops below -22°F.
´´Thermometer? Yes, we have one´´ , the woman in the drugstore told us and with great persistence said: ´´but it´s not a good one, it´s only good for temperatures down to -58°F.´´
We smiled and I thought:
´´I guess, who wants to know when it gets colder than that anyway.´´

We´re just 20 days off the most difficult stretch of the trip. 350 km:s of skiing to reach the small settlement of Kolymskaya, then another 350 km:s to Cherskii, not far off our final goal in Ambarchik Bay. Locals say that this winter is the coldest for many years and it just continues with extremely low temperatures every day now. And, in addition to these continuing extremely low temperatures, storm winds and heavy snow is to be expected. And this worries us, no doubt. There´s another reality awaiting us on this stretch, since in comparison to when we left Zyryanka, at that time, we had no idea what we were heading into. We knew that it was going to be cold, but we didn´t realize just how cold it is when it is below -40°F, until we were out there facing it. At that time, before we left, I had no problems at all to motivate myself for what we were going to do. I actually looked forward getting out into the tent again, feeling that intense freedom again, knowing that I would discover new places and get more knowledge of life. In the last dispatch that I wrote before we left Zyryanka, I actually stated that I didn´t think that we would get any problems, what so ever, with the cold. I couldn´t have been more wrong!

Now, on the other hand, we know exactly what we will experience, and I definitely don´t feel like going back out there again! Where´s the enjoyment in the never ending effort, pulling the sledges all day long with fingertips that are numb from frostbites, knowing that we will have to spend another 30 shivering nights in the tent before we will reach our next goal? Plus this never-ending darkness. Just one long suffering. When I think of it all, I find it hard to motivate myself and I now and then ask myself:
´´Why in earth should I put my skis back on when it will be time for us to continue. What´s the reason?´´

I force myself to think positive. About all these wonderful and amazing people that we met when we traveled from Zyryanka to here, and the happiness and gratitude I felt when they invited us into their homes and into their family. Things lighten up a lot then! On to that I add thoughts of the great nature awaiting us with it´s teeming wildlife and, most of all, that great feeling of being outdoor in the truest wilderness on the globe! Where one can listen to howling wolves and see fresh tracks after giant moose bulls. Well, and another thing, as the sun, once again, has started to show up in the horizon, even if it´s only for a few minutes, it gives the feeling that we are heading towards warmer days, with more light and a bigger chance of surviving without too much suffering.

But we still have 19 more rest days and I´m sure that, when the time comes, I´ve found my motivation and will be ready to get out there again!

I hope!

The sun has once again started to show up in the horizon



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